By four in the morning, the village was already alive with gongs and drums. The General God was carried out of the shrine, through the village lanes, and onto a boat bound for Fengshan Temple—my first time following Dongshan’s traditional Carrying the General procession.
In the rural villages of Dongshan, Suzhou, the tradition of “Carrying the General” remains very much alive. Every year on the 24th day of the sixth lunar month, the lotus ponds draw visitors coming to see the flowers, while the villages prepare for a much more exuberant celebration.
According to local tradition, this is the day when the General God returns to his “maternal family” at Fengshan Temple. Villages across Dongshan take part in the procession, many with their own shrine dedicated to the General God, while some families also keep and worship the deity at home.
The custom is also associated with the history of resisting Japanese pirates in the Jiangnan region during the Ming dynasty. Local legend tells that villagers used the Lotus Festival as a pretext to gather the General Gods from different villages at Fengshan Temple. With drums beating, banners flying and large processions moving through the countryside, they created the appearance of a formidable force. The raiders, believing imperial troops had arrived, reportedly fled.
When I first heard some photographer friends talk about the festival and saw their photographs, I was struck by its scale. I had never even heard of such a large folk celebration, and decided that this year I had to photograph it for myself.
Because the event is organized spontaneously by local villagers, preparations begin extremely early so that people can still get on with their working day. A few photographer friends and I stayed at a nearby budget hotel the night before and set our alarms for around three in the morning. Yet when we arrived in the village in the darkness, the place was already bustling with people.
I checked the time of my first photograph later: 4:09 a.m.
女人们敲锣打鼓，男人们围着猛将准备抬起来Women beat gongs and drums while the men gather around the General God, preparing to lift him.男人们穿着统一颜色衣服将猛将小心抬往佛堂外Dressed in matching colors, the men carefully carry the General God out of the shrine.抬出佛堂后，并不能直接就走，还要在广场上绕几个圈After leaving the shrine, the procession does not depart immediately; the carriers first circle the square several times.继续在广场上绕圈，猛将神拿着宝剑，嘴里叼着香烟The circling continues in the square. The General God holds a sword, with a cigarette in his mouth.猛将出佛堂后在村巷里巡行，有村民会放鞭炮或想方设法让猛将在自家门口多停留片刻，而猛将所到之处皆是福运。The General God is carried through the village lanes. Some residents set off firecrackers or try to keep the procession at their doorway a little longer, believing that wherever the General goes, good fortune follows.很多家庭门口都摆好了供奉，祈求风调雨顺。Offerings are prepared outside many homes, with prayers for favorable weather and a good year.猛将神亲切活泼，抬轿人也都兴高采烈。The General God appears lively and approachable, and the carriers are in equally high spirits.当猛将到达河道码头时，村民们早就穿着各种欢庆服饰整装待发。By the time the General God reaches the riverside pier, villagers in festive clothing are already assembled and ready to depart.这是一艘男人们组成的龙舟。A dragon boat crewed by men from the village.村民们将精心装饰过的猛将神像请上由两条小船并排架起木板组成的“连体船”。伴随着震天的鞭炮声和激昂的号子声，浩浩荡荡的船队沿着河道向着葑山寺（即猛将的外婆家）进发。Villagers place the elaborately decorated General God on a platform built across two small boats. Amid deafening firecrackers and rhythmic chants, the long procession of boats sets off along the river toward Fengshan Temple, the General’s “maternal home.”我跟着上了一条欢庆队伍的船，看着前面连绵的船队，此时天色渐亮。I boarded one of the festival boats and watched the long procession stretching ahead as the sky gradually began to brighten.天色渐亮，船队经过河道岸边大片的荷塘。As daylight grows, the procession passes broad lotus ponds along the riverbank.快到葑山寺的桥下时，船队慢了下来。As the boats approach the bridge near Fengshan Temple, the procession begins to slow.桥上站满了人。The bridge is packed with spectators.欢庆乐队已经准备好，到时大家一起来比一比，闹一闹。The festival bands are already in place, ready to play, compete and make as much noise as they can.船太多了，既然上不了岸，咱就在船上敲起来。With too many boats to reach the shore, some musicians simply start playing where they are.猛将主船要保证上岸，其它船只一律避让，可惜我上的船被挤在河道边缘上不了岸，葑山寺的欢庆场景只能遥望一下了。The main boat carrying the General God must be allowed to reach the shore, so all the others make way. Unfortunately, the boat I was on was pushed to the edge of the river and could not land, leaving me to watch the celebrations at Fengshan Temple from a distance.
